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Dublin, Ireland
Getting closer to living Life on the edge.

Saturday, July 6, 2013

"Language… has created the word “loneliness” to express the pain of being alone. And it has created the word “solitude” to express the glory of being alone." 
-Paul Johannes Tillich

After a few great days in Chamonix, catching up with Karen and getting out on the trails, it was time to hit the road again, and with no real plan we flip-flopped and headed northwest towards Lake Geneva, destination unknown..
Glaciers and chalets on our ride through Chamonix´s
diverse landscape

Passing through Les Getz and Morzine, two very well know for mountain biking, we stopped for a quick look around before deciding it was a place best suited to downhill and chair lifts, the lazy mans day out on a relatively heavy bike. Coming up on Lake Geneva, the French side, the evening warmed and brightened. With Switzerland surrounding most of the lake to the north, east and west, we staying on the French bit and found a nice we campsite just off the lake in the hills, but still with views beyond its watery shores. The area is host to a whole network of the now familiar VTT system of trails, which was music to our ears. After pitching the tent we cooked up a feast and hit the sack, ready for a good couple of days exploring the area. Day one took us out toward the steeper mountains, still covered in snow. The wind packed a chilly punch, so it was long sleeves and leg warmers. Although there was more road biking then we would of liked, there was still some good sections of single track and forest roads, with grinding climbs that got the blood pumping. Day two was more open meadows and small forest sections. Passing under ski lifts that in winter would be buzzing, maintenance workers now stripped down cables and set aside lift chairs for repair. Sleepy towns under serious construction..
This is another lovely scenic part of France, although from the style of the homes with there distinct Swiss look, and Swiss flags flying, it was hard to tell which country we were in. St Paul was the starting and finish point for all the routes, but the trails passed through valleys and around the hillsides. Had we been around for the start of July, we could have entered a race from one of the villages, Vinzier, that we cycled through.
At the campsite we had some very loud French neighbours. They shouted instead of talking, which must have seemed very normal to them.
Moving on the next wet and cold morning toward Switzerland, we stopped to watch a car on fire blocking the main road. with no way around we had to wait until th fire brigade came.
We pulled up just over the border for a coffee, and I was shocked to see that they still allow smoking indoors. Esther couldn´t help but laugh at my look of pure disgust. It´s been so long since the law was passed in most countries that I just found it nothing short of retarded.
It´s a shame it was so overcast as again the scenery in this part of the world is stunning. But then Switzerland has been the most stunning country I have ever been to. From it´s low forested lake lands, to the huge peaks that dominate the landscape.
We were heading to Thun, pronounced ´Tune´, to see a friend and the daughter of Jim´s, an Uncle of Esther´s from Ireland. She lives with views of Jungfrau on one side and a lake beneath snow capped peaks on the other. And all this from a barn converted apartment that would have been right at home on Grand Designs, with it´s lofty and exposed oak beams throughout. Very jealous.
That night we settled for a campsite with views of Jungfrau, had it not been clouded over. Setting up camping the pouring rain was a new experience, but one we are getting use to. So far it was been less of a European summer and more an Irish one.
Jungfrau is the top of Europe. They filmed James Bond here on the top of Piz Gloria, with views of over 200 alpine peaks. In case you didn´t know, the movie was, ´On Her Majesty´s Secret Service´. Bit of trivia..So where next.
Luzern, on lake Luzern for two nights of camping and a day of sightseeing around the town. Yet another ancient town brought into the modern day with trolley buses, trains and a bustling town centre, full of tourists. It was nice to wander the cobble stone streets and venture along the old city castle walls that gave us views of the surrounding mountains on the lakeside and flatter rolling hills on the other side.
Luzen. Wooden bridges with art displays, and the sad
ole Lion breathing his last..
Over the river that ran through the town centre were covered wooden bridges each with art installations dating back many centuries. And all within an easy stroll of the campsite. There is a very famous rock carving that has to been seen, once remarked by Mark Twain as the saddest piece of rock he had ever seen. It´s of a Lion with a broken spear in his side, but I´ll let the picture tell the story, then you can Google it. A remarkable piece of work by anyone´s standards.
Determined to get in at least one bike ride in Switzerland we stopped at the end of lake Luzern, Altdorf. Small town but again surrounded by many snow capped peaks. Seeing that there were lots of signs for MTB and getting a great map from the tourist office, we pulled the bikes from the van and got into our finest bike gear. Bike paths aplenty, but off road trails, not really. After a steep and long climb where the legs began to crumble, all on surfaced roads we lost all hope of hitting any dirt. More than 2 hours later, the trail turned and we headed down toward the lake. Not the winding single track with sweeping corners we hoped for, but rather a straight run on dirt roads.
Since we are not after bike parks and chair lifts, I´m guessing had we more time to explore it may have been better. We got back to camp just in time to put up the tarp giving us some shelter from the pending thunderstorm that rolled in much earlier than forecast. Lashing rain and flashes of lightening persisted for a good few hours before settling. I´ll say one thing for mountain weather, it comes in fast and leaves just as quick, but not after putting on hell of a show.
Back on the road heading for Austria, we felt a bit disappointed, but we can always revisit one of Europe´s best destinations. Passing through Leicthenstein, really a suburb of Switzerland, we crossed into Austria. With the weather clearing heading over the Untervermunt Pass just out of Partenen, I just hope the brakes can hold out on the decent..
Rolling into Ischgl with it´s 4 star superior accommodation, we were left scratching our heads as to why there were no campsites! Not allowed it seems, for this posh village caters to the skiing elite in winter. Still, the trails looks great, even the lung busters.
Our first ride was on the Iron-Bike route, an annual marathon race held here with 3 different distances. We did the short route with just over 700 metres of climbing and 30k´s in distance. Not too bad, just not real single track.
We have however opted to take a chair lift tomorrow, and after all I said about them, but the reason being is that the best trails are higher in the peak ranges. Plus there is a card they give you here, which entitles you to lots of free stuff, like bus rides with the bikes and chair lifts up the mountain, it´s the Silvretta Card, all inclusive. Awesome, so why the hell not eh!
With card in hand and a trail map in the other we set out and jumped the first lift up the mountain to Idalp, the second station, but not the last by no means. Feeling like we should cycle some, we did the last five k´s and some 600 metres up to Idjoch, Alt 2800 metres. It was marked as a push section, but hard as nail we rode the whole thing. After catching our breath, a new set of lungs and 40 winks, we cycled out on the closed route that was to take us back down on some single track, but with walls of snow it was impassable. Instead we headed into Switzerland and the Piz Munschuns ski station on some loose stony tracks. A quick coffee at 2400 metres and then some cool single track down to Alp Trida. There are bike washes here as you need a clean bike to get the chair lift back up to the top. Sweet. Clean bike.
Back on the chair lift, they are so cool, literally, it was back to Idjoch. We followed the number 7 trail, Paznauner Taja. Sweeping single track down the side of the mountain, over some planked boardwalks and a few steep carry sections.
Half way down it gets very technical and steep before hitting the fire-road. From here if you look out for the painted red and white strips on rocks and trees, you can avoid a lot of the road, staying on single track all the way back into Ischgl. At this stage you will be finishing wanting to shake the tension buildup out of your hands, but it´s worth every white knuckle ride from top to bottom. A few beers later and your ready to do it all again, maybe. This is a small village that offers some of the best trails, and best maps. Pick one up from the tourist info.. Next stop from here will be another Austrian region well renowned for it´s trails.

So here are some extra pic´s I really wanted to add just for the hell of it.. It´s truly had to capture the enormity of the area, but I hope the pictures here and throughout my blog help in someway.
Enjoy.. Snow glorious snow, even in July you can experience the glory without the freezing cold, it´s awesome.












My last collage features some random pic´s as when were we coming over one of the mountain passes, there was a product launch of Mercedes new electric car range in partnership with Rotwild bikes. Way cool for a dude, but Esther never really got it.. Plus of course my own product endorsement there for Truvativ, if only they would pay or sponsor me..

1 comment:

  1. It all just looks so magical. What a time you are having! Soooooo jealous. Actually I shouldn't really read your blog on Monday mornings at work! [sigh]. lol

    ReplyDelete

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